Rambling neighborhoods, riverside beaches and sizzling asado cuisine make the Uruguayan capital a rewarding pre- or post-cruise destination.
By Tim Johnson
Fast Facts
Currency: Uruguayan peso (UYU)
Language: Spanish
Tipping: 10% for great service
Temperature: Average daily highs range from around 75°F/24°C (January) to 52°F/11°C (June).
Trivia
Sports
Montevideo hosted every match of the inaugural FIFA World Cup in 1930, with most games taking place at Estadio Centenario. Uruguay won the final against Argentina 4-2.
Music
“La Cumparsita,” widely regarded as the anthem of tango, was composed in 1917 by local musician Gerardo Matos Rodríguez and played for the first time at Café La Giralda.
Wellness
The city often leads Latin America in quality-of-life in part of its walkability, reliable healthcare, natural spaces and nightlife scene.
Eat This
Asado
Uruguayans swear that their capital offers the best beef, often adding that the country has four cows for every person. The best place to taste it? Head to Cabaña Verónica at Mercado del Puerto, where you can enjoy everything from baby beef (rib eye) to brochette de lomo (tenderloin skewers).
If you’re pressed for time
La Rambla
You can see a lot in just a couple hours (or less) by renting a bike and pedaling along nearly 14-mile La Rambla promenade. The broad boardwalk traces the Río de la Plata, passing through some of the city’s most beautiful neighborhoods, including the historic Ciudad Vieja and diverse Barrio Sur.
Enjoy the view
Head to the 22nd-floor observation deck at Intendencia Montevideo to take in views over the skyline, strectching all the way to the Río de la Plata. Be sure to visit at sunset to bask in Montevideo’s glorious golden-hour light.
The souvenir
Maté Gourd
In Uruguay, maté is more than just tea, it’s a cherished ritual, often enjoyed communally among friends. The drink is made from yerba maté, an herb with a grassy appearance and bitter taste, and the experience is heightened by the method of delivery: sipped through a bombilla (metal straw) from a gourd or a leather mug.
Every weekend
Tango got its start around 1880 in the working-class dance halls of Montevideo and Buenos Aires before making its way into the upper echelons of society. Thses days, it’s not unusual to see Uruguayans dancing it in the city’s lively squares. Give tango a try at Joventango, which offers classes.
Did you know?
Parque del Prado
Sometimes called the “lungs of Montevideo,” Parque del Prado is the city’s largest park, with 262 acres of green space. It’s home to a botanical garden and the picturesque Miguelete Creek running through its center, while the Residencia de Suárez, the official home of Uruguay’s president, is just next door.
If you want to cool off…
Make It a Beach Day
Playa Ramirez
Just steps from the kid-friendly castle and amusement park of Parque Rodó, this crescent-shaped beach with calm, shallow waters is perfect for families.
Playa de los Pocitos
Spend the day swimming and playing volleyball at one of Montevideo’s most beloved beaches, stretching over two-and-a-half miles of dazzling white sands.
Playa Honda
Ready to surf? Bring your board to this beach in Montevideo’s tranquil Punta Gorda district to ride the best waves in the city.
Sweet tooth
Chajá Cake
The quitesssential Uruguayan treat is luscious, creamy and indulgent, with layers of vanila sponge cake, peach syrup, chopped meringue cookies, whipped cream and sweet peaches. Uruguayans have been eating it since the 1920s, and you can try a slice at Chajá Bistró.
If you’re up for a day trip…
Embark on a Wine Trail
Wines of robust red tannat, the national grape, have gained such popularity that the country now offers a wine trail, the Mapa del Vino. Fortunately, Montevideo is just 30 miles from Canelones, Uruguay’s most established wine region. At Familia Deicas, take a vineyard tour, then sit down to pair their tannat wines with a six-course meal.
Nightlife
Parque Rodó
This hip neighborhood may be known for its expansive namesake park, but all the action happens after dark. Case in point: Some establishments don’t even open before 1 a.m. Start your eveninng with a bite and a cocktail at the intimate, laid-back El Recreo, then kick up your heels at nearby II Tempo, a discotheque that grooves deep into the wee hours.
If you want to time travel…
Museo del Gaucho
Yes, Uruguay had a cowboy era too. On the country’s northern plains, gauchos lived a rugged lifestyle and soon became national symbols of independance and pride. Experience this bygone age at the Museo del Gaucho, where exhibitions highlights the deep connections between these iconic figures, their horses and the lands they called home.
Mark your calendar
Carnaval de Montevideo
It may not have the same global reach as Brazil’s version, bt this 40-day-plus event is just as exciting. Between late January and mid-March, Montevideo overflows with parades, music and dazzling costumes to costumes to celebrate Uruguay’s Indigenous, Spanish and African heritage. Be sure to catch murga, a theater performance that’s equal parts musical and satire.
Can’t Miss
Estadio Centenario
Montevideo’s 60,000-seat stadium is the only one in the world recognized by FIFA as a Historical Monument of World Football. Walk beneath the iconic 328-foot-high Tower of Tributes before touring the on-site Museo del Fútbol, which includes statues of Uruguay’s soccer heroes, plus photos and memorabilia from their biggest matches.
Local Lingo
¡Ta!
Even if you don’t speak Spanish, you can sound like a real Montevidean if you tá (“got it”) to your patter. A shortened form of está (“it’s okay”), locals use it to express just about any emotion, from happiness and excitement to frustration.
Where to stay
Sofitel Montevideo Casino Carrasco and Spa
Built in 1921 and renovated in 2012, this 116-room belle époque beauty is set on the shores of the Río de la Plata in the affluent Carrasco neighborhood. Following an afternoon browsing the nearby boutique and galleries, unwind in a dry sauna before retiring to an opera suite, which offers 360-degree views of the city.
Hotel Montevideo
Nestled in the plain palm tree-lined neighborhood of Pocitos, this five-star property seamlessly blends indoor and outdoorliving, thanks to private balconies, floor-to-ceiling windows and a rooftop pool. Dine at the acclaimed Polo Bamba, which specializes in seasonal ingredients, or enjoy a drink at the 10th-floor bar.
